TROUBLE SHOOTING PUMP
and 4. (Assuming that carburetor adjusting needle is set
correctly -- about 1 1/4 turn open.)
FIRST SHUT OFF ENGINE.
IF THE PLUG IS WET with fuel. check spark as follows:
CHECK PUMP BODY FOR WATER --fill it low or empty.
Push a long 1/4 " screw into the rubber boot to take the
CLEAN SUCTION STRAINER IF CLOGGED.
place of the spark plug terminal. Make sure the screw
CHECK HOSE CONNECTIONS - Most pumping trouble
contacts the spring connector inside the boot. Hold the
is due to air leaks at the suction hose connections. All
boot so that there is an air gap of about 1-4 " between
hose gaskets should be perfect. as even a slight leak
the screw and any bare metal surface of the unit. (See
will prevent pump from priming. If making connections
fig 23) (Caution: Keep fingers back from the screw
tighter has no effect, disconnect hoses from pump and
avoid getting shocked: also. don't choose a spot too
check pump suction, below.
close to the open spark plug hole where fuel is expelled.)
CHECK PUMP SUCTION -- Cover the pump suction
Crank the engine with switch "on". A spark should jump
opening with the palm of your hand (fig 25) or with a
from the screw to bare metal. If it does, the ignition
vacuum gauge. If pump and engine are both In good
system is all right--use new plug. If no spark jumps, the
operating condition, the suction against your hand will be
ignition has to be checked,
very strong, almost painful. At sea level a vacuum gauge
should read 25 inches. The pump will prime at least 25
feet. At high altitudes, where atmospheric pressure is
not as high and air is thinner, lower readings and
correspondingly lower lifts will be obtained.
As the impeller and the pump seals become worn, the
pump vacuum will be reduced, but water can be
satisfactorily pumped as long as there is enough vacuum
for the required suction lift. In all cases, the vacuum
gauge reading times a factor of 1.13 will give the
approximate suction lift in feet. For best results (fast
priming and maximum flow) always keep the suction lift
distance as short as possible.
- Pump and engine eliminated as
trouble sources; check condition
FAN HOUSING ASSEMBLY
of suction hose, below.
CAUTION: Should the fan housing be removed for any
- Enough to do the job; check
reason, he sure to RESEAT THE FAN HOUSING flush
condition of suction hose, below.
against the engine during reassembly as follows: FIRST.
position housing on engine. NEXT, pull the starter
- Engine not up to speed or power:
handle out, THEN let the starter rewind until the FAN
or internal pump trouble. Test
HOUSING CLICKS INTO PERFECT all-the-way-around
register against the engine. (See fig 24. )The fastening
No Suction at all
- If engine runs, trouble definitely in
screws can now be installed without fear of cracking the
pump. Have pump checked.
fan housing or breaking the pawls.
CHECK SUCTION AT STRAINER END OF HOSE--
Connect suction hose to pump, haul hose from water
and remove suction strainer. Test suction at end of hose
with palm of hand - wait for suction to build up inside the
hose. If there is no suction or only weak suction at end
of hose,. there is an air-leak at the connection or in the
hose. If there is good suction but no flow, try another
hose. Your hose may be partially blocked or the liner
may be separating on the inside.